Alignment check for 2010 Elantra Touring - pulls to the right
#21
07-07-2010, 08:28 PM
Pull to the right
I had the same issue, only with a "slight" pull to the right. Drove the car for about 2000 until i could get it back to dealer. Dealer switched the two front tires and the car now tracks straight as an arrow, no matter what speed i am traveling. I can't help but wondering if it was a systemic problem, they all would do it and it could not be repaired by dealer. If one can be fixed easily, you would think that with the proper knowledge, the problem can be solved.
I know it is easy for me to say since mine was repaired easily, but it does not make sense, unless Hyundai made some manufacturing change during the production run.
I know it is easy for me to say since mine was repaired easily, but it does not make sense, unless Hyundai made some manufacturing change during the production run.
#22
07-08-2010, 06:33 PM
Hi Colorguy,
Had the car back at the dealer today. They put the car back on the alignment rack and all specs were within tolerance...but the regional rep that was there said to zero out the settings anyway. Went for another ride...marginal improvement in the pull, but the dynamic of the car wanting to go right with really nothing to keep the car going straight was still there. Then, we drove a 2010 GLS much better driving dynamic. So thats where we are at. Problem has been escalated to another field rep.
Had the car back at the dealer today. They put the car back on the alignment rack and all specs were within tolerance...but the regional rep that was there said to zero out the settings anyway. Went for another ride...marginal improvement in the pull, but the dynamic of the car wanting to go right with really nothing to keep the car going straight was still there. Then, we drove a 2010 GLS much better driving dynamic. So thats where we are at. Problem has been escalated to another field rep.
#23
07-14-2010, 04:59 PM
My Elantra Touring 2010 pulls to the right
I've had my 2010 ET in 3x for the 'drifting to the right' problem. After 2 alignments and a swap of the front tires, it still is not fixed. A Hyundai Rep (District Manager) went for a ride with me, then he test drove it. His conclusion is that this extreme (my word) drifting was normal for electronic power steering. He said that the shop has done all they can. I said that I was a dissatisfied customer. He suggested, but made sure that I understood that Hyundai is not financially responsible, that I could talk to a salesperson at the same dealership and trade my car in for another model. UNBELIEVABLE! Hey 'swoopbns', I'm going to have to contact the Hyundai head office too.
#24
07-15-2010, 08:07 AM
Question for everyone with the pull. Are you driving the GLS ?? The GLS sport has 17 " wheels and all the rest of the Tourings have 15". The car reviewers love this car and I am thinking it is because they test drove the GLS sport with 17" wheels. So upgrading to 17" may help
#26
07-15-2010, 01:23 PM
WHAT??? Theyre claiming its "normal" for this to occur? Wow. On my vehicle, the driver inputs to acceleration dont seem to have too much affect, as it still pulls right regardless. Im in the states, so I dont have a clue as to how consumer friendly arbitration laws are in Canada. Sounds too typical, Im pretty much expecting the same thing soon. Thanks. Did you emphasize the safety factor under adverse conditions? I have another FWD vehicle(Chevy Aveo) that doesnt do this.
I'm new to the forums. Have had my Touring since April, and over 10000 spirited hard driven miles already. I work @ a Hyundai dealer. I codrive rally cars.
I stopped reading with this post and if I am duplicating information I apologize.
The issue is not an alignment issue. It is Tourque Steer. The axleshafts are of a disproportionate length to each other, the power when applied causes the car to pull because the unequal length causes an unequal application of power to the wheels, one is simply turning fast/slower @ the end of the shaft causing the wheel to turn a slightly different speed. This is why with the foot off of the pedal there is no alignment issue other then the crown of the road as the wheels are free wheeling, when at highway speeds the axles have a chance to catch up to each other. Really think of it as the axles twisting minutely like a spring. Hence the Tourque part of Tourque Steer.
The power band of this motor is 3-5200rpms this is when it will be most noticeable in this car. It really is a front wheel drive issue. It is more pronounced because the length of the axles are so different (I have not measured but one is 2/3 or less the other in length) This is extreme. In a perfect world they would be equal in length. With a transverse arrangment of the engine and transmission one must be longer. Many manufacturers try to put the differential tucked behind the engine to minimize the difference (think of it as tucking it around the corner of the back of the motor) But this makes a heavier, less efficiant drivetrain. Also it is far bulkier so you loose room in the car and make it nose heavy as well.
It is also (other then the tires that are Khumo's interpetation of a rock hard skatey Michelin ) the only bitch I have so far.
I was far more thrown by the variable assist steering but have become used to it. It helps hide the tourque steer effect btw. Traction control also helps, with the esc off it is worse, I don't know what the Automatics are like but I would expect the same issue.
Bernie
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_steering
Here is a review I did on a rally specific web site for anyone that is considering a 2wd rally car build. As such it is about performance characteristics, not cup holders. I should add the hard driving I was able to do was as part of a rally as an official on closed roads used in competition, not street racing, (I do drive hard though) I also have access to a closed preserve with dirt roads and the characteristics where similar.
2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring aka : Hyundai i30 US spec… aka :the new Golf ?…
5sp, 2.0 gas, base with 195 66 15 steel tires/wheels, OEM (b&m) short shifter 5sp,
Disclosure: I have one that I have done about 800 hard miles out of 1000 with.
Specifics about the bits from a driving POV, then an overall opinion on the car.
Steering is the first thing that I noticed. The progressive nature annoyed me for the first one hundred miles of driving. The graduation from turn in to hard steer was uncomfortable. Somehow, against my will; I have gotten used to it in 3 days. The light to hard feeling is barely noticed already. I didn’t think I could get used to the twitchy input that quickly, but now it feels predictable and I actually like it. It makes the wheel feel light in the hand.
The steering & a lightish a$$ make for go-kart handling. The chassis skips predictably like a stone on water. Once it goes a direction that’s the direction it goes. It has a thick built and consistent independent rear that I have found to compliment the light steering in the front of the car. This is consistent in both loose conditions & grippy tarmac. The car is not dead neutral. Big attachments will return big rewards.
Torque steer is evident ALWAYS. Car goes right under load. I have not had time to measure the axle lenghth. Experience with this drivetrain allows for compensation (you can get used to it) Like anything you learn to compensate. Turning radius feels tight I have not looked up what other cars do but this car turns around like you want to.
Engine reminds me of a mid to late 80’s 318i. 3300-5100 rpms all the time will make you very happy. Lower rpm range is pedestrian, noticeable and if listened to will keep you out of the ticket collecting club. Red line on the tach is 6500. What may be the most gentle of rev limiters ever… kicks in @ 6700. The stock limited top speed of 127mph comes easily @ 5800 rpm in 5th on a long flat. Most torque is supposed to come @ 4000 rpm, the engine pulls best (right now as new) 3400-4500rpms.
The car on a kick or yump or medium jump settles level. Stock struts are Bilstien developed, they seem to be the real deal.
4 wheel disc bind well. Not a set of anchors, but correct for the car, in better hands may be deficient but most will never know. Sure to light on fire with some I have driven with.
You can left foot brake without an electronic argument about what you are trying to do is an illogical driver input.
3000 gvw should be 2700 or less built. (no data just instinct)
And then as a regular daily driver car I like it. It is like a 2003 bugeye Impreza TS/RS but 2wd. As such it is light, fast-sh and cheap to the point that non-car people wonder why you bought it. Car people say that was cool let me drive it for real this time.
I think this car has the potential to replace the Golfs that are aging and dying out.
5sp, 2.0 gas, base with 195 66 15 steel tires/wheels, OEM (b&m) short shifter 5sp,
Disclosure: I have one that I have done about 800 hard miles out of 1000 with.
Specifics about the bits from a driving POV, then an overall opinion on the car.
Steering is the first thing that I noticed. The progressive nature annoyed me for the first one hundred miles of driving. The graduation from turn in to hard steer was uncomfortable. Somehow, against my will; I have gotten used to it in 3 days. The light to hard feeling is barely noticed already. I didn’t think I could get used to the twitchy input that quickly, but now it feels predictable and I actually like it. It makes the wheel feel light in the hand.
The steering & a lightish a$$ make for go-kart handling. The chassis skips predictably like a stone on water. Once it goes a direction that’s the direction it goes. It has a thick built and consistent independent rear that I have found to compliment the light steering in the front of the car. This is consistent in both loose conditions & grippy tarmac. The car is not dead neutral. Big attachments will return big rewards.
Torque steer is evident ALWAYS. Car goes right under load. I have not had time to measure the axle lenghth. Experience with this drivetrain allows for compensation (you can get used to it) Like anything you learn to compensate. Turning radius feels tight I have not looked up what other cars do but this car turns around like you want to.
Engine reminds me of a mid to late 80’s 318i. 3300-5100 rpms all the time will make you very happy. Lower rpm range is pedestrian, noticeable and if listened to will keep you out of the ticket collecting club. Red line on the tach is 6500. What may be the most gentle of rev limiters ever… kicks in @ 6700. The stock limited top speed of 127mph comes easily @ 5800 rpm in 5th on a long flat. Most torque is supposed to come @ 4000 rpm, the engine pulls best (right now as new) 3400-4500rpms.
The car on a kick or yump or medium jump settles level. Stock struts are Bilstien developed, they seem to be the real deal.
4 wheel disc bind well. Not a set of anchors, but correct for the car, in better hands may be deficient but most will never know. Sure to light on fire with some I have driven with.
You can left foot brake without an electronic argument about what you are trying to do is an illogical driver input.
3000 gvw should be 2700 or less built. (no data just instinct)
And then as a regular daily driver car I like it. It is like a 2003 bugeye Impreza TS/RS but 2wd. As such it is light, fast-sh and cheap to the point that non-car people wonder why you bought it. Car people say that was cool let me drive it for real this time.
I think this car has the potential to replace the Golfs that are aging and dying out.
Last edited by ihbobry; 07-15-2010 at 04:07 PM.
#27
07-15-2010, 08:06 PM
That, and road crown is EXACTLY what my dealer's been trying to tell me all this time, but I'm still not convinced. My car has a VERY slight rightward drift....not really a pull per se. And it does this during steady (NOT accelerating) cruising speed 60-80 kph on a seemingly level road. The car has had an alignment done, and that improved things a little, but didn't totally solve the issue.
Now, if it WAS torque steer, it would be doing this under acceleration ONLY, right? As for road crown, while I haven't actually gotten out of the car and checked the road with a level, it certainly appears to be very level. And if there is a SLIGHT slant to the road, then the suspension setup is obviously WAY too sensitive to react like that.
Personally, I still think it's something to do with the electronic power steering, but the dealer seems to be too busy going on about road crown to listen.....
Now, if it WAS torque steer, it would be doing this under acceleration ONLY, right? As for road crown, while I haven't actually gotten out of the car and checked the road with a level, it certainly appears to be very level. And if there is a SLIGHT slant to the road, then the suspension setup is obviously WAY too sensitive to react like that.
Personally, I still think it's something to do with the electronic power steering, but the dealer seems to be too busy going on about road crown to listen.....
#28
07-15-2010, 08:21 PM
Any car can have a misalignment, even one that is inherent/persistant/new ...it happens. I did not mean to say every complaint is Tourque Steer, but I will say every complaint about a hard right under load is.
Bernie
Last edited by ihbobry; 07-15-2010 at 08:27 PM.
#29
07-15-2010, 08:48 PM
Drifting and Torque Steer cannot be confused even by a 100 year old bitty. They are very different.
Any car can have a misalignment, even one that is inherent/persistant/new ...it happens. I did not mean to say every complaint is Tourque Steer, but I will say every complaint about a hard right under load is.
Bernie
Any car can have a misalignment, even one that is inherent/persistant/new ...it happens. I did not mean to say every complaint is Tourque Steer, but I will say every complaint about a hard right under load is.
Bernie
Just seems, that a lot of the drifting/pulling issues with this car seem to occur not under power, but simply cruising in a straight line (or trying to). Which is making this one a tough one to diagnose.....
#30
07-16-2010, 05:05 AM
I took some air out of the left side driver tire 30 instead of 32 to compensate and it is better.. Also if you accelerate like a little old lady (torque steer) it is better
Bernie yep that is what the dealer was telling me about the length of shafts. Any resolution to this ?
The big problem with this car is the steering. As described in a review like a bunch of thick rubber bands trying to pull the car back to center . So it feels like manual steering. If the steering was power assist then you would care about a pull to the right you would just keep one finger on the wheel to keep it correct. With this steering it is too noticeable
Bernie yep that is what the dealer was telling me about the length of shafts. Any resolution to this ?
The big problem with this car is the steering. As described in a review like a bunch of thick rubber bands trying to pull the car back to center . So it feels like manual steering. If the steering was power assist then you would care about a pull to the right you would just keep one finger on the wheel to keep it correct. With this steering it is too noticeable